On a splendid morning, I got down from the bus, greeted by the enchanting allure of Nemathanpetti near Karaikudi. Gopichettan was waiting there for me with a car. Savoring a delightful cup of tea from the nearby tea shop, our journey gracefully continued towards Kanadukathan, an enchanting heritage village nestled in the heart of Chettinad. Through the car window I could see the breathtaking vistas of Chettinad mansions, their majestic facades ascending towards the azure sky, each structure standing as a testament to the glorious traditions that have adorned this remarkable Village. Seeing a beautiful house on the way, I asked Gopichettan if he could stop the car so I could take a photo, and his reply was, "The magic of undiscovered beauty awaits us." After a ten-minute journey, the car stopped in front of a palatial mansion.
I came here to photograph 100 year old , 5000 sq. m. area, Chettinad mansion for Benny Kuriakose and Associates. I had received the pictures taken by Benny sir and a short description of this mansion near the Kanadukathan Palace. So I had a rough idea of the house in my mind. Before shooting the Photographs, I went along with the caretaker Muthuvanna for walk around the entire mansion. It took hours! Encountering a Chettinad mansion for the first time was a stroke of luck, and I had the privilege of staying in this splendid residence for three memorable days! Those days were unforgettable. Incredible sights adorned every corner, with the interior of the house being a must-see marvel, embellished with imported materials from various corners of the world.
Most of the houses in Chettinad are full of beautiful antique furniture. From the top floor of the house, the roof views of the thatched mansions of Chettinad are amazing. These types of pitched roofs are a common feature of houses in Chettinad. A pitched roof is a type of roof that is often used in areas that experience heavy rain or snow. In Chettinad, roofs designed to protect against monsoon rains and it is usually made of clay tiles or thatch. Comprising over seventy villages such as Kanadukathan and Athankudi, Chettinad was under the influence of the wealthy Chettiars, who were both traders and affluent individuals. The opulent lifestyle of the Chettiars was showcased in their residences. To my understanding, Kanatukathan stands out as the most fitting village to delve into the grandeur of Chettinad mansions.
Numerous mansions extend seamlessly from one street to the next. However, a significant number of them have fallen into disrepair. Many residences are unoccupied, as the owners have established their lives in foreign countries or various parts of India. Caretakers are entrusted with maintaining these houses, while a few exceptionally rare ones are open for visitors, with an entry fee of Rs.50. Thanks to the assistance of Gopi Chettan, who has resided in Karaikudi for twenty-five years, we were able to explore other houses in Kanatukathan. His intimate knowledge of the intricacies of the area proved immensely beneficial during my visit.
These magnificent mansions, which were called 'Natukotas', were built on an area of one acre. The entrances of these multi-storied mansions are impressive. On the main entrance we find beautiful sculptures of Lakshmi, the goddess of wealth and prosperity, and other characters from Hindu mythology. Many of these are broken and dilapidated. The 'thinnai', which is visible from the entrance gate, is decorated with beautifully carved pillars. Chettinad house is known for its beautifully carved doors and pillars which are commonly used in the construction of grand buildings like temples and mansions. Intricate carvings can be seen on the main doors of these houses. They are meant to extol the handiwork of the carved sculptor. Here we can see the stories and characters of Hindu Puranas.
The entrance opens to a spacious courtyard. Each house has multiple courtyards. Surrounded by smaller rooms, these open spaces serve as a source of air circulation and light. These courtyards are an important part of the cultural heritage of the region. Symbolizing an integral facet of the region's cultural heritage, these expansive and airy courtyards traditionally served as focal points for social gatherings such as festivals, weddings, and ceremonies marking births or funerals. The courtyard is supported by intricately carved pillars made of Burmese teak. They are a sight to behold. A unique historical practice involves plastering the walls with a mixture of egg white, shell powder, and limestone, an artistry that endures, imparting a distinctive sheen to the walls even after more than a century. The floor surrounding the courtyard is decorated with colorful tiles. Italian marble is also used in some places.
Another major attraction of Chettinad homes is the spacious dining room. Such dining areas were probably built due to the large number of family members. Small rooms can be found around these. Many of these are now used as store rooms. These rooms have large windows and carved doors. One part of the dining area opens to the front side and the other part opens to the kitchen area. Unlike normal houses, Chettinad houses have large kitchens. There is also a large patio adjacent to the kitchen. The women of the house used to spend their time here. On one side of the open courtyard, there are water tanks. These tanks were used to collect rainwater during the rainy season.
Chettinad houses are a blend of Indo-European architecture. No matter how many times you see or copy, you will not get enough. During the days spent in Kanadukathan, every evening I would take a walk along the street lined with deserted palatial mansions, carrying a camera. My camera has captured the exterior views of several mansions at this point. I went for a walk in the area around one kilometer from Kanatukathan Palace. On my way back I go to a lakeside near Kanadukathan Palace. It gave me a serene feeling. Chidambara Vinayakar Kovil is located on the banks of this lake. The temple has colorful deity idols and beautiful carvings on the pillars. The memories created in Kanatukathan will forever be etched on the map of my mind.
